22 Nov How a suit jacket should fit

There are a few things to check on your list to ensure that your suit looks elegant.  Many people assume that simply because they know their size, and as long as they use those measurements, the suit will fit.  If it were only that simple.  Suits have various cuts, style and construction, and the “one size fits all” rule doesn’t account for body shapes.  This makes finding a suit a bit tricky.

Here are things to look at when you fit your suit.

1. Shoulder line

Suit finishes on suits come in a variety of options, from soft, to padded to La Spalla Camicia.  Which option you ultimately choose, should take how it will fit your body.  Your shoulder pad’s edge should end neatly in line with end of your shoulder.  This means that your arm will fill out the top of the sleeve, creating a smooth line.  If it too tight – your arm will stretch out the sleeve; too big – your shoulders will hang unnaturally.

2. Lapels

 Gap between the chest and the lapels, shows that the jacket is too large.  If the chest panels on your jacket are small, the lapels will bow.  Many think that going for a tight suit is the way to go, but as experienced tailors, we can say that tight is not always right.

3. Sleeve Length

As a general rule for sleeves, you should always at least an inch of your shirt cuff when you are in a neutral and relaxed position.  A dash of colour peaking from beneath the end of the jacket cuff will always help you look more stylish.

4. Jacket Length

On the topic of jacket length, we look towards the British traditionalists and the Italians.  The British traditionalists prefer a longer finish – clenching your fist and lining up the jacket with your knuckles gives an ideal length.  This looks nicely with a traditionally fitted and style suit.

The Italians, on the other hand, prefer a shorter length with a slimmer suit to give a more elegant line to your legs. 

As a general rule for the modern suit is to look to choose a length that only cover your trouser seat – with this rule, your style is guaranteed.

5. Buttoning your jacket

You should always have the ability to fasten the buttons on your jacket.  A gap of an inch to and inch and half from your stomach to closure.  If it is too tight, the button will pull and create an awkward x-shaped crease in to front of your jacket.  If it is too loose, your jacket will lose its fit and shape.  The button should sit around the part of your body that is widest, which will allow your jacket to fit your body naturally